Runway photography by Peter Jensen
Designer photo from her website
I chose to write on DUYAN separately because she was one of my hands-down favourites this season. Born in Korea, she moved to Milan in 1986. She freelanced for several fashion houses and ended up collaborating for 9 years with Gianni Versace on the main line, Versus and accessories. In '97 she also consulted with prestigious pret à porter labels including Blumarine and Max & Co. 2005 was the year she launched her own collection self-described as "...for a modern and sensual woman with a strong personality, secure in her choices."
I was lucky enough to have designer Doo Youn Jeoung sit next to me the very first night of VFW and was instantly charmed. It's always nice to find a talented artist who is also gracious and warm. All through the week I eagerly anticipated her show and was not disappointed. We often hear less is more and Jeoung proved the master of this. There was a simplicity showcased in her designs paired with just the right subtle accents. Nothing more was needed. The collection was a well thought out range of dresses, coats, skirts, blouses and vest inspired by Audrey Hepburn's role in the film Charade. Luxurious, yet delicate fabrics included wool, cashmere and silk. Garments offered an appealing fluidity combined with subtle detailing.
A personal favourite was the softer shaped, thigh length jackets with the fold out lapels. Here the palette included 2 shades of gray and a bright red. The use of buttons and stitch trim as well detailing the back provided just the right accents. The large, roomy pleat in back was also a great addition. This look is both elegant and wearable at the same time.
The collection also included a bit of fur for the fall as well as a few jackets and knee length coats. Cream, taupe, navy, brown and black offered a range of choices and all were designed to have just the right balance between room to fit over clothing and a flattering, silhouette.
The last 2 I wanted to show here are a bit difficult to see because of the dark colour, but they add what every fall collection should have - a bit of sparkle. On the left is both a dress and coat with the accent found in a wide swatch at the bottom of both. A great pair to wear for a night out. On the right it's the dress underneath that has that hint of glamour intriguingly created in a subtle checkerboard pattern.
I can only hope this designer will be back next season for us to see what new is in store. She has a unique talent to combine elegance and simplicity with just the right proportions and fabrics. The line is flattering, feminine and oh-so-easy to wear - all guaranteed to make it a hit with today's modern woman.
For more information or to contact this designer, you can visit her website at http://www.duyan.it/HOME%20en.htm.