Vancouver Fashion Week S/S 21 - Interview with designer Michiko Ueda of GLAZE KOHL (Osaka, Japan)

GLAZE KOHL - Showing on Sunday October 25th

Description - 

The brand theme is “ Chic." Imagine a charming lady in a monochrome world. You may find “ Chic “ garments in her wardrobe. And there will be “GLAZE KOHL" too…

Bio

Michiko Ueda is the founder of "GLAZE KOHL" brand (launched in 2018 Fall / Winter). She ran the vintage store in Osaka, Japan from 1997 and started the production of the brand in 2018.

Over 20 years exposure as a buyer and a proprietor of a vintage clothing store, working with wonderful fashion has had a big influence on the her creative process.

Interview - 


Can you please share a bit about what drew you to fashion - first through 20 years as buyer and proprietor of a vintage clothing store, and now as a fashion designer of her own brand?

I have been attracted to old movies and portraits since I was a teenager, fascinated by the charming gestures, hairstyles and fashion that complemented them.

The wonderful vintage pieces I have purchased and handled for more than 20 years are now adopted by people of an era decades later as the current fashion. Each individual is personalized, and their look is always looks fresh. 

And I'm still fascinated by connecting with people through clothes.

10代の頃から古い映画やポートレートに惹かれ、そこに写る人々の
チャーミングな仕草、ヘアスタイル、それらを引き立てるファッションに魅了されました。

20年以上に渡りVINTAGEを取り扱い、買い付けてきた素晴らしいVINTAGEアーカイブを、何十年も後の時代の人々が今のファッションとして取り入れ、それぞれの個性で自分のものとし、着こなす姿はいつも新鮮に写ります。

そして洋服を通じて人々と繋がっていく事に今も変わらず魅力を感じて居ます。


What led you to move from vintage into designing and building your own fashion line? Was the transition more challenging or less challenging than you expected?

After working as a buyer for over 20 years, the clothes of my favorite era have disappeared visibly. In addition, I have seen many clothing items that have already reached the end of their life due to deterioration over time. They can no longer be worn even casually. 

From the hundreds of thousands of clothes that I have acquired so far, it was inevitable for a style to create an archive of wonderful details that will be memorable in new clothing not just as a memory. The birth of my brand was a natural flow from this archive. Moving to a brand wasn't been easy, but also wasn't difficult. because of the joy of creating, and the praise from the people who love and purchase the clothes. 

20年以上バイヤーを務める中で自分の好みの時代の洋服が目に見えて無くなっていきました。

また、経年劣化により既に洋服としての寿命を迎え、気軽に着られなくなった物も沢山見てきました。

今まで手にした数十万点に及ぶ洋服の中から記憶に残る素晴らしいディテールのアーカイブを、思い出では無く形にしていく事は、スタイルを作るにあたり必然であり、ブランドの誕生は自然な流れでした。

ブランドへの移行は簡単ではありませんでしたが、困難とは思いません。
なぜなら、出来上がる喜びと、手にする人々からの称賛の声が支えになるからです。

How long did it take to create your first collection? How has your design work changed and matured in the 2 years since launching? 

It took about a year from planning to release. Shortly after its launch, I had the opportunity to announce the runway collection in Vancouver Fashion Week. The following season I also invited to show at New York Fashion Week. The experiencing of showing my collections on the runway helped me become more aware of my brand's identity. By using Japanese-made fabrics and materials, and having my clothing made in Japan, it has been matured into a high-quality urban and sophisticated design.



企画から発売まで約1年の時間が必要でした。

発売からまもなくバンクーバーでのランウェイコレクションの発表という機会を得て、翌シーズンではNYFWにも挑戦しました。そしてランウェイショーを経験する事で、アイデンテティをより強く意識する事となりました。

日本製の生地や素材を使用し、日本製という拘りをを持つ事で、質のよい都会的で洗練されたデザインへと熟成されています。


Please describe the women you design for. Who is your customer?

My customer is person who enjoys incorporating fashion in their own way. Everyone who is interested in the style offered by GLAZE KOHL.

ファッションを自分らしく取り入れる事を楽しむ人です。
GLAZE KOHLに興味ってくれる全ての人です。 

What was your inspiration for your S/S 21 collection? What kind of fabrics are used? What colours are in the palette?

The theme of the 2021 S / S collection is 1MILE WEAR, and the inspiration is "1940S MANNISH STYLE" and "VINTAGE HOUSE WEAR". 

Now that I have more time to spend at home, I want to wear high-quality but comfortable clothes. The theme of this time, 1mile (about 1.6km) wear, is an image of comfortable everyday wear in the living area. We are particular about each fabric and deliver "high quality" clothing that is close to our daily lives through carefully tailored clothes. We were also flexible with the theme, introducing some unique items such as petticoats, innerwear, aprons, and hairnets. 

In this collection, we mainly use an Eco-friendly recycled fiber called Cupra. Cupra, which has a silk-like luster and smooth appearance, is woven by a Japanese dobby loom craftsmen. It is resistant to discoloration and has excellent water absorption and hygroscopicity, creating a luxurious feel with a unique elasticity and drape, and is comfortable to wear. By using it create clothing in a timeless style, this collection is both relaxed and ethical.


2021年S/Sコレクションのテーマは1MILE WEAR、インスピレーションは”1940S MANNISH STYLE””VINTAGE HOUSE WEAR”です。

自宅で過ごす時間が増えたいま、着たいのは上質でありながらも着心地の良い洋服。

今回テーマとした1mile (1.6km位 ) wearは、生活圏での着心地の良い日常着をイメージ。

一つ一つの生地にこだわり、丁寧に仕立てられた洋服を通して生活に寄り添う”上質 ”をお届けします。

テーマをフレキシブルに捉えペチコートをはじめとしたインナーウェア、エプロン、ヘアネットなど小気味良いアイテムも登場します。


今回のコレクションでは環境に優しい再生繊維キュプラをメインに使用。 

ドビー織機で日本の塾練の職人により織られた絹に似た光沢と滑らかな見た目であるキュプラは、変色しにくく吸水性と吸湿性に優れ独特なハリとドレープで高級感が生まれます。 


日常使いでありながら上質な着心地であり、長く愛用される洋服をイメージすることでリラクシーでエシカルなコレクションに仕上がりました。 

Any hints as to what we will see in your fashion film presentation on the 25th? 

The video on the 25th submitted this time is for S/S 2020, but like the S/S 21 collection, it expresses a vintage-style design style using materials that feel modern.

>25日の映像は2020S/Sのものになりますが、2021S/Sも同じくヴィンテージ風のデザインを現代を感じる素材を使用して表現しています。

Links - 








Comments

  1. Japan has the most creative and dynamic designers! Thanks for telling us more about them and about @VFW, this season.

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