Interview with Liza Deyrmenjian, Owner & Dean The Cut Design Academy

Please share with readers a bit about the journey that led you to where you are today - the owner/dean of The Cut Design Academy. Looking back, can you see any early signs this would be your career?

What led me to where I am today, it was a zig zagging road that is for sure. In my very early 20's my design studio quickly turned into a factory. By age 23 I had over 50 sewers in house and I had over 150 home sewers. My factory was in Yaletown back in the 90's when Yaletown was still up and coming. It was a good time, the fashion showrooms were all there and the neighborhood was bubbling. I was manufacturing approximately 10,000 units a month to over 20,000 units a month and we made for companies like Umbro, Westbeach, Intrawest and Costco. We made for the retailer Mariposa now out of business but once upon a time a Canadian staple. I loved manufacturing and I loved the community I worked with. It was a really cool time in Vancouver in Fashion. 

When I sold my factory, I moved to New York City. I knew no one and wanted to move out of fashion and be a film producer. ( I did produce 2 movies which I am sure no one has seen!). What I learned was that the formula and the method in making things is the same whether it be fashion, film or a car. This was a real aha moment for me. In a turn of events, I was asked to consult with a small brand to help bring them to launch. This led to me speaking at a trade show on how to source and manufacture in the city you live in. 

Public speaking was new to me and my main goal was to make sure the audience didn't get bored. Mission accomplished. After this talk I had more than 8 new clients in a consulting business I didn't know I was going to start. That is how my consulting career in helping young brands launch started in NYC. All my clients had not gone to fashion school. The year was 2005 so the internet was not as robust as it is today. The search engine was yahoo and digital cameras were what people used to take images of their products. Many of my clients got into Saks, Bloomingdales, cover of WWD, InStyle and more magazines. I produced my '48 hours to your own business' workshops and held them in New York and LA. I realized I had a knack for explaining factually and practically how to go from idea to sales in a manner that let the student feel they could do it. I broke it down as well, if you have 5k 50k or 500k doesn't matter the steps are the same.

I moved back to Vancouver in 2015 and started a small shop in Kitsilano. People kept coming in to ask if we taught sewing, so I said yes and put together a full menu of fashion part time courses. When I interviewed potential employees who had graduated from fashion design programs, I saw candidates knew a little of this and a little of that but had no real confidence in one given area of design. I saw the education industry was not addressing a better way to learn. I decided to get accredited and form a proper post secondary academy that taught students in a way they could really not only learn but add value to any company they applied to or started.

What training did you take, and what work experiences along the way helped you gain the skills needed to create the successful business you run today?

I went to a private design college too in Toronto -  The international Academy of Merchandising and Design.  I think the Art Institute bought them years ago. I loved my experience there, I loved how in 2 years we were taught what we wanted to know in the field we wanted to be in.

Starting my first studio in 1990 was my greatest teacher. I put all my money into inventory. And then I opened my doors and had 1 client. My mom. It was scary and good a lesson learned. A mistake I  repeated and learnt from again and again. I tell all my clients and students, "We can teach you how to make it and the methods to sell it, but YOU have to go and sell it. You have to be able to go out there and sell to get the momentum needed, whether that be your line or selling yourself. It is key."

Building and running a factory was a huge teacher. I learned timing, discipline, working with people and relying on one another. It is heartbreaking to me what media and politics have done to manufacturing domestically. It was a major source of labor and wealth, and fueled the middle class. In one fell swoop they did away with it once they took quotas away in 2000. Everything not only moved offshore - the bottom went out. You could not compete in a fair market because everyone was moving factories if the guy next door did it $.10 cheaper. A new culture was born and business relationships went from doing business with colleagues to the one that can get it done the cheapest and fastest. Happened overnight and it was sad. Of course - with this came the 'brand'. People had more funds to tell the brand story so other angles did open up however there is a comradery in the making of things.

Taking all of my last 35 years in the industry and applying it to our curriculum has been very rewarding. We are committed to helping our students find their careers and get on their desired path.

Looking back, where did the inspiration to launch The Cut Design Academy arise from? What was the process you had to go through to make this dream a reality?

I was interviewing a pattern maker who had written on her resume a list of skills from pattern making, to digital pattern making to sourcing and product development. I hired her. She fell flat on her face with all the skills she felt confident she had after 4 years of design college. I saw a GREAT need for better education and a better way of delivering the syllabus. This is why I created each term as one discipline. 

When you take our Fashion Design Diploma for example, your first term is Fashion design and illustration. Here you learn everything about brand DNA, sketching, illustration, and fabric rendering. You learn about fabrics as well and you learn how to convey your story to the world. 

Every season in stores the reason consumers are drawn in is the creative director has told the story well,. It is resonating with the consumer. We are a small, boutique, family-style college by design. I love it this way.

What is easiest for you as an entrepreneur? What is more challenging or your least favorite? Were there any unexpected surprises?

The easiest is coming up with ideas. The challenging part is narrowing down what to run with. Right now my passion is Waste Up - a fabric manufacturing & marketing company -  which is a company I have started that addresses the overage in production with fast fashion. I call it actionable sustainability. Waste Up is a marketing company that takes overage, makes fabric, partners the brand with another brand and repurposes the fabric overage. Sounds simple & it actually is. 

I feel unless we engage fast fashion in a financially meaningful way, to show a logical and efficient cycle to make them sustainability heroes, we won't move the needle in sustainability in fashion. I actually think the least sustainable thing in fashion is 'sustainability' in fashion. Did you know that the amount of textiles going into landfills or being shipped overseas has tripled over the last 20 years. Odd seeing as the push of sustainable this and that has also tripled. They created a category for the consumer that have not solved the issue. And until fast fashion gets on board, no slow fashion designer is going to fix the problem.

And realistically 80% of the North American consumer can't afford slow fashion once they have a kid, a mortgage a this a that- so.... we have to come up with a different way to approach the problem. I am not a fan of BS. To me a lot of these sustainability plays are platforms for sales, but they are a joke when you are looking at it from within, and painful if you care about what the waste and greed is doing to the earth. You can't push water uphill. And in manufacturing the more you make the less it costs. So one has to speak this language to the players. Otherwise, why would they listen?

Readers would love to know what the focus of the academy is and the programs available. Can someone just come and take a course or two? Are there certificate programs available, and how long do they take to complete?

Our philosophy is one program per term and it is a deep dive into that skill. For example if you are doing pattern making and garment assembly, for 15 weeks 20 hours a week you are working on this and only this. The results have been excellent. Students get the most out of their education and they are confident when they complete their programs. Side note this is how the Buddhist monks also train. It is a form of meditation which permeates on a subconscious level. Muscle memory. Repetition is key. This is why our students are proficient in a subject by the end of term.

The Cut offers a wide range of studies including: Product Development and Manufacturing, Digital and Technical Pattern Making, Garment Assembly, Costume for  TV and Film, Make-up Artistry, Nail Technician, Graphic Design and Interior Design.  We have full-time, part-time and two week intensive programs. Those interested can sign up for one term of any program to try it out.  We also have a one to eight ratio of teacher to students in classes, which means students receive more personal attention.

The academy was founded in 2016. I would love to hear a favorite moment or two of yours from over the years - high points that make it all worthwhile.

Sam just launched his collection called Setting and he invited me down for the event. I loved seeing how well Sam is doing how happy he is and just how talented he is!
That happened just this last Saturday. I bought a piece!

Issa came to us from Toronto and his aim was to get into Central St Martins. He was with us for a little over a year to create the portfolio needed to get into CSM. I knew how important this goal was for him so I have to say though I thought his portfolio was excellent. I was his 2nd call when he got his acceptance to Central Saint Martins... (his mom was #1)

It is great seeing our students shine with pride and excitement when they show their creations at Vancouver Fashion Week to the live crowd.  I love that moment when you see your students hit their stride, and I love seeing the instructors get so excited for them

What is the best way for someone to learn more, or to arrange a visit to the academy to get a tour?

Vanessa Botha heads up admissions and her email is admissions@the-cuttingroom.com. Send her a note and she will get back to you immediately.

Is there anything else you'd like to share in closing?

I believe the right education is important, but it depends on the person and the industry. Many people succeed without education. However, for any Design Discipline you need some education. For students looking to learn, make sure the school you choose is a hands-on school, that support and mentors are there for you to make sure you are getting the best education there is and the support you need. The Design industry is endless, rewarding and always changing. So dive in - Don't wait for an opportunity. Create it.

Links - 

• Website - www.thecutfashionacademy.com/
• Instagram - www.instagram.com/thecutdesignacademy/
• Facebook - www.facebook.com/thecutfashionacademy
• TikTok - www.tiktok.com/@thecutDESIGNacademy
• Linkedin - www.linkedin.com/school/thecutdesignacademy/
• YouTube - hwww.youtube.com/@thecutdesignacademy